Limescale or hard water is the primary killer of appliances, kettles, and water boilers. Limescale removal is a laborious process that often fails if left for too long. The best descaling method is one that doesn’t involve descaling at all. Water filters come in a wide range of styles and sizes. Installing a water softener on the property’s main water supply is the best defense against limescale buildup in pipes and appliances. Depending on the size of your family, water softeners might cost anywhere from £300 to £700.
Preparing for Setup. Never break the rules on water use. Ensure the unit can be easily accessed for salt refills and future maintenance and that there is just one main water supply. The water pressure, central water supply stop cock, drain facility, and power supply must all be checked before the device can be installed.
Pressure Check on the Water. A pressure check needs to be done regularly. The softener is susceptible to damage or failure from both low and high water pressure. The softener has been stress tested; however, a pressure restriction should be installed if the pressure is higher than 5 bar (70 psi). A leak controller is a valuable addition to any water-using device and is highly recommended.
Where to Put the Softener. This should be as close as feasible to the main water line. Install hard water take-off points at any indoor or outdoor water sources. The cold water faucet in the kitchen can be used as a source of clean water for drinking. If that isn’t an option, a filtered water kit that anyone can put together exists. I suggest installing a reverse osmosis system if the Stopcock is in an inconvenient location, as this will result in a hard water supply. Reduce the distance between the sink and the Softener. Avoid letting the drain and overflow get below freezing or above 49 degrees Fahrenheit. If you plan to place the softener within a cabinet, ensure the base is well-supported. It’s suggested that a 95-liter tank be used to house the softener and provide adequate insulation if housed in an unheated space like a loft. The tank’s overflow must be at least 3/4 inches in diameter and below the softener’s overflow.
Stop-Flow Valve. Only one check valve needs to be installed in a single-family home. You can get this at any hardware or plumbing store.
To-do list. A pair of T-valves, an isolator valve, and a pair of flexible hoses are all that are needed to connect the unit’s inlet and exit.
Make sure the stopcock is closed before beginning valve installation.
Establishing a link to the buffer. When you are through installing the valves, make sure the inlet and exit valves are closed, and the bypass valve is open. The stop cock can be moved back to the open position. It’s time to hook up the softener’s flexible inlet and outflow lines. The softener tails should have an engraved arrow or the words “inlet” and “outlet” to designate the inlets and outlets. Typically, a softener will have three tails, with the waste outlet in the middle.
Putting up a Sewer Line. A waste hose, which may or may not already be attached to the softener, is included with every softener. If this isn’t the case with your machine, you can connect the softener drain with the fitting at the end of the provided flexible tubing. Bring the drain hose indoors or outside, whichever is more convenient. At the end of the drain line, there needs to be at least 20 mm of space. Water softening equipment has no negative impact on a septic system. The drain hose can be extended up to 8 meters using a 15mm copper tube and a daytime pressure of at least 40 psi. Make that the drain hose is not kinked since this could cause the machine to overflow. With a minimum pressure of 40 psi, the drain pipe can travel uphill no more than 3 feet.
The Overflow Link. Disconnect the overflow pipe from the main drain. The white half-inch hose spigot on the back or side of the cabinet serves as the overflow connection. This link can be made without a clip. The overflow path cannot have bends or obstructions as it travels downward through an exterior wall. The overflow hose is suggested to be exposed where it emerges from the outer wall.
Wiring up the electrics. After turning off the power, connect the provided transformer to the always-on power source. Join the controller’s power source to the transformer’s flying wire. Ensure the stray lead won’t get snagged in the camshaft or other moving parts.
Getting the softener ready for use. Now that everything is hooked up, you should fill the brine tank with about 5 liters of water. You can also add salt to the tank at this time. Never fill the brine tank of a water softener to the point where the salts would spill over. The amount of salt needed to operate specific equipment varies. Never allow the brine tank to run dry of salt; until a regular consumption pattern has been established; checking the salt levels once a week is recommended.
Preparing the apparatus for use. Switching the inlet and outlet valves to the service positions and turning the bypass valve counterclockwise will put the machine into operation. The following steps should be taken to achieve the best results from this treatment.
First, activate the Softener by opening the inflow valve.
Second, make sure the bypass valve is closed. Step 3 should be delayed for about five minutes to let the incoming water pressure build-up.
The third step is to activate the Softener by turning the outlet valve on.
Now is the time to manually regenerate your machine and finish any remaining programming steps. At this point, you run a manual Regeneration to ensure that the unit’s newly installed valves are airtight and that the Waste is free to flow. Any airlocks in the system will be cleared with the help of this regeneration process. Any meters or timers built into the regeneration process will also be reset. Soft water should now come from your machine and into your home. In case you find the water to be too gentle for your liking. You can mix in some hard water by slightly opening the bypass valve to diminish the soft water’s effect.
Andrew Brazendale has worked as an electrician and in building maintenance for over a decade. For more information, please see Click here for further details and helpful hints on
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